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996 alignment

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996 alignment

Post by pgriep » Thu Apr 29, 2010 8:43 pm

I have a stock 2003 996 c2 w/M030, 18" whls and 26K. I want to TT in the future and would like to base line the car on alignment. Dealer tells me to bring in the car with full fuel tank for alignment. I rarely drive the car with a full tank - usually 1/2 -. What is the consensus for TT - fuel load vs handling? If the answer is less than full, should I model this for alignment? It seems with less fuel load the front rises and brings + camber? :? Paul

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Jim McClelland
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Re: 996 alignment

Post by Jim McClelland » Fri Apr 30, 2010 9:20 pm

1. When you start participating in DE/TT, what percentage of miles put on the car will that be (figure approx. 200 track miles per DE/TT weekend), or will the car be dedicated to track use? You might want to consider this, as setting the alignment for a lot of negative camber will cause very premature wear from daily street use.

2. I believe that once you're into a DE/TT weekend, you'll just fill the tank and drive it until it needs fuel, then fill it again (figure 8 to 9 mpg while on the track), so you won't really be worrying about minor camber/toe changes as fuel gets used. You will want to do the timed runs with about 1/4 tank.

Just my opinion.
2002 996

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Re: 996 alignment

Post by PAUL LARSON » Tue May 04, 2010 1:23 pm

I think the dealer just wants the car heavier to
make it easy for the mechanic to get the castor
This has nothing to do with running a DE/TT event.
Just my two bits.

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Re: 996 alignment

Post by johntavernetti » Thu May 06, 2010 8:09 pm

I have the same car/year as yours. Ignore the dealer on this one. You want the car aligned in the condition you normally drive it (if that means half-a-tank, then drop it off with half a tank). That includes your body weight in the driver's seat. Most good P-shops performing a complete alignment will ask you how much you way and they will place an equivalent amount of ballast in the driver's seat or floor boards to replicate this condition prior to beginning the alignment work.

With stock suspension, they won't be able to get all that much negative camber into the front suspension... not enough to cause premature inside tire wear to any notable degree. Beside which, any premature inside wear you get on the street with negative camber will be evened-out on the track by lots of outside wear from cornering at 1.0g. So just tell them to get as much negative as they can up front (more than the stock spec if possible). Then do the caster and toe to spec.

If you start TT'ing a lot, you'll probably want to add GT3 front control arms to get even more front camber (and so begins the slippery slope of mods). I run negative 2.5 degree up front and negative 2.3 degrees in back.

See you at the track. Look me up if you have more questions.


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